There is a quick, easy, and affordable way to dramatically update your bathroom of without replacing anything. Instead, you’re adding a simple DIY mirror frame around your existing bathroom mirror.
A DIY mirror frame can be customized for any size bathroom mirror. I’m going to show you how to frame a bathroom mirror on a large, 58 x 42 inch bathroom mirror.
Most homes come with one large builder grade mirror in the bathroom. Builder grade mirrors aren’t the most attractive or decorative item, but it can be MUCH more appealing with a simple DIY mirror frame.
DIY Mirror Frame – Shopping Checklist
- Caulk Gun
- Wooster Angled Brush
- High density foam paint roller
- Painter’s tape
- Baseboard or other wood for frame
How to Frame a Bathroom Mirror
The frame that I picked out for my bathroom mirror is very basic baseboard. Measuring 2 inches wide, and a ¼ inch thick. This can be the fun part because you can pick something intricate or wider as there is a large selection of baseboard to choose from.
The bathroom mirror frame can be painted or stained in color you any color that matches the bathroom in your home. I decided to paint my mirror frame the same color as the bathroom vanity that I painted for an easy bathroom update.
Both the mirror frame and bathroom vanity were painted the color Complex Gray by Behr Interior Semi-Gloss Enamel. I recommend painting mirror frame after all of the cuts have been made. After the frame has been cut to size, give the frame a light sanding then wipe down to begin painting.
I used a Wooster Angled Brush to I apply the paint to the front surface and the back surface of the mirror frame. If you are painting a larger mirror frame, you could also use a high density foam paint roller to smooth out brush strokes.
Before applying the 2nd coat of paint, I let the mirror frame dry for a couple hours in between coats of paint. I also, applied 1 thin coat of paint to the back of the mirror frame because you will see a some of the back in the reflection of the mirror.
Make sure to save the Wooster Angled brush in an airtight plastic bag, so you can reuse the brush again. You might need to touch up a few areas after removing the painter’s tape. Somehow I only had a small spot on the mirror frame that needed another coat of paint.
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STEP 1: How to Cut the Mirror Frame
I cut the two short sides on 45 degree angles at 42 inches long each. The long sides were also cut at 45 degrees (both sides put together make a perfect 90 degree angle – High school for the win) and they were each cut at 59 inches.
I know what you’re thinking: “But you said your mirror was only 58 inches long. Do you even math, bro”? …well, it’s always better to have more than less and the overlap certainly doesn’t hurt because I wanted to make sure it covered the entire mirror.
STEP 2: Notches
Now then, after your pieces are cut, you might run into the issue of the mounts holding the mirror up. There are probably 4 of them – 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom. Those are holding the mirror in place so it’s important that I didn’t remove them unless I wanted the mirror to explode all over my bathroom. But if the frame has to be flush against the mirror, how do I get around this?
This part can be a bit tricky and you might know a better way of doing this than me. The first step is to hold to the long frame pieces up to the mirror and draw an outline on the wood where the clips will align on the frame.
Definitely make the outline bigger because, it gives you some play so the frame actually aligns. You will need some wiggle room with these.
Now you’ll want to chisel out a gap in the frame where you traced your clips. I used a multi tool to carefully make small etches in the wood, then made etches in the other direction so it was like a tiny checker board.
After that, I just “dug it out” with a chisel and hammer, again careful to not puncture the front side.
That is as complex as it gets. I had to make sure it was deep enough that the frame was flush against the mirror. It took me a couple tries as I was careful that I didn’t go too deep. Make sure you dry fit your frame to make sure everything aligns before adhering it.
STEP 3: Adhering the DIY Mirror Frame
To adhere it to the mirror, I used Loctite – Mirror, Marble, and Granite Adhesive. I put some on the back of each frame piece in a wave pattern, to make sure that some of the adhesive will make contact with the mirror.
I started with the bottom piece and once it was in place, pressed firmly. I used painters tape to hold it in place until it dried (48 hours at least). After that, I did the same thing for the two side pieces and then the top piece last.
Tip – Save Brushes!
To use a brush again, simply place the wet brush into an air tight plastic bag. The brush can typically last up to a week in the bag, so the brush can be used multiple times for your project.
After reading about several different types of paint and their best usage, I came across a really great product. This paint is perfect for any cabinet project. Rust-Oleum’s Cabinet kit is definitely a great product, but there are other options that can get you just as good of results.
I can browse the bathmat isle for at least 20 minutes at Home Goods trying to carefully select the correct mat. I have a lot to consider in this isle and my husband doesn’t understand the thought process that goes into selecting such a simple item.
We recently replaced the outdated Hollywood glam light fixture with an in expensive brushed nickel fixture. Come back soon for an update on how to install a light fixture.
This was an easy way to take the bathroom up a notch with minimal cost and minimal work. It doesn’t always have to be a massive reno project to add value to your home! It’s the simple detail that can make the difference sometimes. Comment below with any questions.
I’m a paint fanatic and I literally painted my house top to bottom, which includes the ceiling. I also painted my vanity, kitchen cabinets, and furniture. It’s safe to say I am also particular with my products (after a lot of trial and error) so I listed my favorite ones here.
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