When I moved into my first home I didn’t have a large budget, so I figured out how to build a bar on my own. Here are my tips to build a home bar and DIY bar plans with a bar cut list that simplify your project.
Woodworking Needed Experience to Build a Home Bar
I had ZERO woodworking experience at the time, but I decided to learn how to build a bar because I couldn’t afford to pay someone to build it.
I had basic knowledge and skills with tools as a former aircraft mechanic, but no experience with woodworking.
There is a sense of accomplishment that I get from building things and making things work again.
So, I knew I could figure out how to build a home bar if I took my time with this DIY project.
If you don’t have much woodworking or tool experience then this a good place to start.
You can build a basement bar to the exact specs and size that fits your space with our detailed bar plans.
As always, when in doubt, consult a professional.
Things you Should Read To Make a Basement Bar
Everything that you need to know to build a bar is in this post, but if you want to simplify your project we have 3D images of this bar and bar cut list.
The instructions included in the DIY bar plans are very detailed and easy to understand, so a beginner can build a bar.
Standard Home Bar Measurements
I did not follow these measurements exactly, but these are a good guidelines to keep in my when building your home bar.
If you are a beginner with woodworking than you will also find our lumber guide helpful.
Home Bar Measurements
- Standard home bar height is 42 in
- The overhang should be at least 8 in
- Most bar stools are 30 in tall
- Normal bar top is 16 to 20 in. wide, including the molding
- Chicago bar rail for resting your arms
- The drink rail is nice but I didn’t include this in my bar
- A drip lip keeps spills contained to the bar top
- A lower counter is not necessary for a home bar and adds complexity, but you’re welcome to add it.
- 2 feet per bar stool is the standard but the more the better
- The foot rail should be 7 to 9 in. off the floor
DIY Bar Plans
When I moved into my first home I knew that I wanted a home bar in the basement as an additional hangout space for friends and family.
At the time I didn’t have the budget to pay someone to build a home bar for me, so instead I made my own DIY bar.
I decided to share my instructions in this post and I also created 3D bar blueprints, so you can easily learn how to build a bar too!
Size of My Home Bar
My home bar is about 8 feet long on the front side, 5 feet on the on the left side, and 3 feet on the right side.
Keep in mind the bar top will overlap on both sides of the bar and be much wider than this.
It is recommended to mount a bar to a wall to prevent any tipping even if your floor feels level.
Rock Solid Rustic DIY Bar Plan – Bar Blueprints!
Rock Solid Rustic DIY Bar Plans include 3D models to build your home bar from the frame to finish.
Everything you need to know is in this post, but the detailed instructions on how to build a bar are 30 pages in length.
The home bar plans include a bar cut list to save you a ton of time and guess work.
DIY Bar Plans also help simplify how to add shelving, decorative accents, bar rail, and more to your home bar build.
If you have any other questions while building your home bar, you have us!
We typically respond with in 24 hours after receiving your comment on this bar post, if you have any questions.
Over 500 DIY Bar Plans Sold
Many customers have said that they never built anything in their life, but with our bar plans they were able to easily make a home bar.
Everything you need to know is listed in this post, but it is a long read. These 3D plans will make your project even easier!
Tools Required to Build a Home Bar:
- Compound Miter Saw
- Circular Saw
- Finishing Nails
- Nail Gun
- Brad Nails 15-16 Gauge (Optional)
- Safety Glasses
- Tape Measure
- Hand Sander
- Caulk Gun for Wood Glue/Adhesive
How to Build a Home Bar Frame
I used basic wood screws and 2×6’s to make my basement bar frame.
It’s easier if you lay it on the ground and construct it in 3 pieces (walls if you will), then put it together.
There are two 2×6’s on each end of the large wall just wide enough so that the other smaller wall 2×6’s attach to it and provide additional support.
I think the height is 40ish inches. Standard bar height is 42, but the bar top will add a few inches.
Make Sure Your Bar is Level
It’s important that the tops of all sides are level at this point or it can cause problems down the road, like an unlevel bar top.
It is recommended to mount a bar to a wall to prevent any tipping even if your floor feels levels.
I made the mistake of not checking this and my bar top is not level on the one side, but it still looks and works fine.
Don’t mind the beer cans in the picture. Beer isn’t required, but it is recommended.
Mounting the Bar
There is nothing attaching the basement bar to the wall at this point, so be careful not to tip the bar while working on it.
You can attach it if you want, but you definitely won’t want to at this point as adjustments may need to be made.
It is strongly recommended to mount a bar to a wall to prevent any tipping.
How to Build a Bar Frame
Next I added the plywood to all exterior sides with 3/4 inch pine plywood.
Pine is softer wood but it keeps costs lower and looks nice and grainy.
Plus, I haven’t had any problems with it, but here a few things to remember.
When screwing it into the frame, I pre-drilled my holes.
Pre-drilling will make your life much easier and prevent the wood from cracking.
At this point I didn’t use wood glue to attach to the frame but you can if you want.
Building a Home Bar Frame Tips
When I was building a home bar frame, I did make the mistake of not putting shims on the bottom of the plywood where it meets the floor.
My bar frame kind of just rested on the ground when I screwed it in.
Ideally, you probably don’t want it touching the ground.
Elevating slightly will protect your bar in case of a basement leak or you move the bar to an uneven area.
It’s okay if there’s gaps on the corners, as these will be covered later by trim pieces.
I randomly placed screws on the perimeter of the frame, where I knew it would be covered by trim.
It’s important not to put it in the center of the frame where it will be seen later.
How to Add Trim to a Home Bar
Next I added 1×8’s of pine to the bottom of the bar then I used wood glue and finish nails to adhere the trim.
Finish nails look cleaner and are easier to conceal when building a home bar.
I recommend pre-drilling your holes to prevent the wood from cracking.
Again, I made the mistake of not using shims to have it slightly elevated off of the ground.
The side and top trim pieces are 1×4’s of pine.
Then I used wood glue and finish nails to attached the trim to the sides of the bar.
Final Touches to the Trim
Now that the trim pieces have been put on it is starting to come together.
At this point I haven’t even touched the inside of the home bar yet.
If you want complete home bar blueprints for this exact bar with measurements, bar cut list, and shopping list, then you will like our DIY Bar Plan!
Also, it is recommended to mount a bar to a wall to prevent any tipping even if your floor feels levels.
Home Bar Trim Design
I added a basic pattern to the front of the home bar, figuring 4 bar stools would fit nicely.
Measuring out a space for where each bar stool would sit then used 1×6’s, wood glue, and finish nails again.
I also, measured the sides of the bar to add the same pattern to the sides.
The trim pieces on the bar are adhered with wood glue then pre-drilled for the finish nails.
Pre-drilling allowed the finish nails to attach to the studs (frame) behind it, but an extra nail or two wouldn’t hurt.
If you want to avoid adding all of the trim pieces and save yourself all the cuts then you can add shiplap instead.
Adding shiplap or similar wood planks will save time on cuts and measurements.
These are basement bar design ideas that you haven’t seen before!
FIRST BAR TOP
When building a DIY home bar you will have two “layers”.
The first layer, or sub bar top, I needed two pieces to span the bar.
I needed two pieces because one couldn’t fit the length of the bar.
These pieces can just be any standard 3/4 inch plywood because another plywood piece.
Pine or wood of your choosing will go on top of this for added stability.
It’s also needed for the Chicago bar rail along the edges, if that’s what you choose.
Again, this piece is NOT the top of your bar yet and will not be seen.
Refer to the layout at the top of the page for measurements accounting for how much should overhang.
How to Attach Bar Top
The bar top is attached using wood glue and screws into the top of the frame with pre-drilled holes again.
I did not do a drink rail in the back but you’re welcome to give it a shot.
I measured this about 16 times before cutting because you can see each piece is “L” shaped.
They needed to align seamlessly (in reality they don’t because another piece will cover it).
This piece hangs over 8 inches in the front and roughly 4 inches in the back.
One regret I have was not making the bar top a little bigger.
Even though the bar top is plenty big, it’s just personal preference.
SECOND BAR TOP
Before measuring and cutting the top later, make sure you look up directions on the bar rail that you’re getting!
Unfortunately, I don’t have a picture after stacking the second layer of the top.
It was about 1 1/2 inches shorter in the front (any place the bar rail will touch) than the bottom piece.
Make sure to read the directions on the Chicago bar rail you’re buying before measuring and cutting the second top piece.
I strongly recommend this because this what the bar rail rests on (see above).
The top piece was pine plywood then adhered with wood glue and wood screws.
I drilled the wood screws in from the BOTTOM, so that the screw heads weren’t visible.
Make sure that the screws won’t penetrate the top when screwed in.
If you are ever in doubt, then hold a screw next to it to see how far it’ll go into the next piece.
How to Pour Epoxy on Bar Top
After building this home bar, I poured epoxy on the top to add shine and protection.
This was my first time pouring epoxy, so I didn’t realize how tedious it could be.
I have made several other bars since this bar, so I learned a few tricks to pour epoxy.
Follow these tips to prevent bubbles in your epoxy with our tips and tricks.
How to Build Bar Shelves
Building the shelves for your home bar first involved creating a frame on the bottom.
The frame is made of basic 2×4’s and attaching to the frame of the bar.
Then I cut a shelf to fit the frame size, with leftover pieces of pine from the bar.
The shelves are attached with finish nails.
It is best to build the shelves as you go, building it upward.
Meaning don’t just put on the back wall, it has to be stacked as you go.
It will be more clear as your read on while looking closely at the pictures.
You could to do this another way, have at it because I probably made this more complex than it needed to be.
If you are still struggling with the shelves, we have complete home bar blueprints for this exact bar with measurements.
The instructions provide 3D models of this home bar and shelves, a bar cut list, and shopping list.
How to Build Bar Shelves
The top bar shelf is supported by 1×4’s in the front support then the back wall as the back support.
To get the 1×4’s in the front to actually support the shelf, but still look clean in the front.
I attached another cut 1×4 piece to the back of the front 1×4’s (basically attaching two 1×4’s to each other) with wood glue and finish nails.
The shelf could then rest on those (back) 1×4’s while still having the front 1×4 untouched.
Bar Shelf Support
For support of the back of the shelf, I cut one of the 3/4 plywood pieces that will go against the back, and the shelf rests on that.
I put trim on the bottom of the shelf to hide the frame with 1x4s again.
Make sure the shelf is level in all directions before permanently attaching them. Aka, drop a pencil on it and see if it rolls.
Again, I did a sandwich type technique to cut another piece of the back of the bar and rest a shelf on top of that, while sandwiching 1×4’s together again for front support.
Attaching the Shelves
Wood glue and finish nails were used when attaching all pieces involving the shelving, since they hide better than screws.
Below is the semi-finished product. You can still see gaps in the corner, which were later covered with quarter round.
I used 1/2 inch Birch for the very top shelf only because I had it left over from another project, but the other shelves were again, 3/4 inch pine plywood.
Then I covered the front edge of the plywood with basic 3/4 inch wide trim pieces.
Basement Bar Shelving Ideas
If you don’t like the look of my basement bar shelves then here are some other bar shelving ideas from our customers.
These shelves were designed by our customers to perfectly fit their space and storage needs.
Adding Chicago Bar Rail to Your Home Bar
The bar rail is a separate process in itself because you cut the top of the bar.
Scroll back up to read about the 2nd bar top process. (remember there’s two pieces of plywood stacked on top of each other).
The very top piece should be cut slightly shorter than the bottom piece because the bar rail is notched so that it kind of steps up to the next piece.
Cutting Chicago Bar Rail Tips
When cutting the Chicago bar rail, you have to build a jig so that it gets cut exactly like it sits on the bar.
Constructing the jig is basically putting two pieces of wood together, with the same 1 ½ inch gap just like the top of the bar.
This should be explained further in the instructions of the bar rail if needed, which is probably easier than I can explain it here.
Even with the jig, I found it to be virtually impossible get the corners to line up perfectly.
I cut the wood multiple times and adjusted the angle, but I couldn’t get it to fit just right.
The wood putty and sanding really helped to join the pieces together, for a smooth finish.
If you want complete bar blueprints for this homemade bar with measurements, bar cut list, and shopping list, then you will like our DIY Bar Plan!
This is the finished back of the bar, as I added one more trim piece, and then lined the back of the bar top with a couple pieces of 3/4 inch trim to hide the edge of the plywood.
The top of the smaller trim pieces lining the top of the bar, as you can see, actually is “L” shaped that it covers the bar top and back.
This is the finished front of our basement bar.
You can see where two pieces of bar rail joined based off the wood putty mark.
I also needed wood filler on bar top where the two pieces joined.
Finishing Touches – How to Stain the Bar
I sanded the entire bar and stained the bar Kona Semi-Gloss Stain.
It took 2-3 coats of Kona stain to get the shade shown here.
This stain has the stain and polyurethane built in, so I did not need to add a top protective coat to the stain.
I did add the LED light strip that you see in the top picture for added effect.
I can change the color on those or keep them off altogether.
This of course is optional but everyone seems to enjoy it.
Home Bar Stools
We purchased bar stools that are 30 inches in height, which are perfect for our homemade bar.
If you like the look of our bar stools, then here are similar bar stools to ours.
The great thing about these bar stools is that they have a foot rest built into the bottom of the stool, so I didn’t even need to add the bar rail to the front of my bar.
The bar rail is the foot rest that sits at the bottom a bar, but is optional.
I am yet to add this because they can be rather expensive, but I do think they take the bar up a notch.
A home bar doesn’t have to be tedious or complex, and can be made without wood working experience.
The hardest part is just getting started, so go to the store and buy pieces for the frame.
After you have built the frame, then go back to the hardware store to pick up more wood for the next step.
Buying Wood for the Bar
I found it easier to go back and forth the hardware store for wood instead of trying to figure out all of the math ahead of time.
My wife thought I was trying to avoid her nagging by spending so much time are the hardware store.
Which is kind of true, but I really did find it easier to take the bar section by section so I didn’t get overwhelmed.
Once that frame is built, it adds a whole new level of motivation.
If you’re looking for directions on building the super simple accent wall, then check out my other blog post.
If you want complete blueprints for this exact bar with measurements, bar cut list, and shopping list, then you will like our DIY Bar Plan!
Be sure to comment below and let me know how yours turns out. I’ll try to answer any questions!
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